Read Your Indulgence

On The Go // Have Some Madeira, M’Dear

December 24, 2014

I’m going to bet that you have heard of Madeira, or, at least, its eponymous aperitif wine. But while visitors may go to the island thinking of the wine, my guess is they will come away talking — or slurring — about poncha, a native drink so potent it doubles as a rough-n-ready cold medicine. Not kidding.
A tiny dot of land in the eastern Atlantic north of the Canaries, Madeira is a sharp contrast to its Mediterranean counterparts like Ibiza, Santorini, or Hvar in that taking it slow is really the point. Rocky, wild, and volcanic, the island is a possession of Portugal, and is very much that country’s “nature island.”
Gay life on the island means sticking to the narrow lanes of the capital and largest city, Funchal. Strictly speaking, there is no exclusively gay bars anywhere on the island, but Funchal is one of those towns where there is always going to be a very strong gay contingent in any of the clubs you hit. Thursday, Friday and Saturday are your party nights. Café do Teatro, Mini, and Bar Expresso are good bets.
But that’s a night. During the day, a swing through the Mercado do Lavradores (Farmer’s Market) is a window into the island’s culinary traditions—and cheap on-the-go lunch—before you try “coastering.” This is mountain rappelling meets mountain climbing meets jumping into the sea off the said-mountain. Madeira does not rise out of the sea so much as launch; mountain hikes up Pico do Arieiro are all fine and good, but if you really want to put some hair on your chest, a creep along the precipitous cliffs of Cabo Girão will definitely prove your valor. To really get a feel of Madeira, take a stroll along a levada, a unique type of canal early inhabitants carved into mountainsides to bring water from the lush west to the more arid east.
THE time to go to Madeira is coming up: New Year’s. Yes, New York and Hong Kong have their celebrations, but unlikely Funchal beats them all with the largest fireworks show on the planet. The best way to catch all the action is to forego land and get a seat in a boat in Funchal Bay — I recommend the replica of Christopher Columbus’s Santa Maria, what locals have come to call the “Pirate Boat.” It’s the most popular. Arrrrr…
For more info, go to gaymadeira.com and visitmadeira.pt.  Steele Luxury Travel is here to assist you with your travel planning to Madeira and Spain beyond.  Visit us at www.SteeleTravel.com
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