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It’s the irony of any sprinter — you train, you sweat, you bleed for years. And then, finally, you get to the starting line. You have been waiting for this moment all your life. Then you get into the blocks and BANG! It’s all over in seconds. That medal better be worth it.
That’s how you might feel about what is called Italy’s oldest sporting event: the Palio di Siena. At the bottom line, it is really just a horse race. But the Italians up the ante by holding it not in a hippodrome, but smack in the middle of town in the city’s medieval square. Even better, the riders do not use saddles, and pretty much hang on for dear life. Good thing the races last all of 75 seconds, 90 seconds max.
Held twice a year in July and August, the event goes back to at least 1644, and is unique to Siena. But of course they have to make it difficult: Each horse and rider represents one of the 17 “contrade,” or district, of the city — but only 10 race at any given time. Those seven that did not participate in 2015’s race automatically get into that of 2016. The final three additional riders earn a place by drawing lots.
The course follows the outer rim of the Piazza del Campo, so spectators are actually ringed in by the raceway. You are inside looking out, and “crammed” does not even cover it: 60,000 people on average come to watch this thing from all over Siena and the world. To be sure, getting a good vantage point is hotly contested along not only the actual route, but in the buildings surrounding the square. Too deep into the crowd and you would have no idea what all the fuss is about. For people without an “in,” show up on the morning of the race, pick out a spot, and wait it out. Better have a partner so you can alternate and do food runs.
Never have you seen hometown pride like this. Decked out in the heraldry of their contrade, horses and riders parade the city days before the event in a ritual called “la tratta.” There is a three-day lead-up to the Palio, and the buzz just gets louder and louder until the evening of the third and final day and then BANG! All over in done in less time than it takes you to sign on with dial-up.
But for those looking for something un-touristy in Italy, you could hardly do better.
For more information, go to ilpalio.org.