On the surface, Hay-on-Wye is a charming country town whose castle — and try not finding one in Wales — is its own timeline: the most ruined part is the Norman-age remains, and then the architecture marchest sequentially from medieval times up to modern times. The rolling countryside, charming tea houses, and labyrinthine market section of town all bespeak of a idyllic daytrip from the bustle of nearby Cardiff. Do a little digging, however, and you’ll find the town is one huge bookstore.
Call it a whacky PR idea that actually worked: in 1988, the town decided to throw a book festival, basically a party celebrating the written word. And it took off like a rocket; what former president Bill Clinton called “the Woodstock of the Mind,” the Hay Festival (from May 26 to June 5) today pulls in over 200,000 bibliophiles and a laundry list of luminaries from literature, poetry, and music from all over the world.
From there on in, the town, known as Y Gelli in Welsh, went a little book-crazy. On all other days before and after the festival, Hay-on-Wye rates as one of the biggest used-book depots in the world. And it is hard to underestimate just how much this town is dedicated to books. By that, I mean the actual, paper-and-ink kind. Kindles, Nooks, and all other e-readers are — get this — BANNED. Exactly how strident local law enforcement is on the matter is kinda debatable, but however antique the notice, Hay-on-Wye has utterly given itself to the idea of curling up with a good book (and yes, there are Gay & Lesbian book sections in the stores). There are so many booksellers, in fact, that they have the luxury of “focus.” For example, Murder & Mayhem only sells thrillers and whodunits. You can spot the space easily from its sign, which is of a man about to get strangled. Call it truth in advertizing.
As an additional quirky side note, Hay-on-Wye is its own “kingdom.” Not a real one, mind you — Queen Elizabeth II isn’t shaking in her tiaras over job security — but in 1977 a local book-nut, tongue planted firmly in cheek, declared Hay-on-Wye a microstate, and himself as king. It was from this foundation that the book festival took off 10 years later. Everybody keeps the joke going, and it did wonders to turn a backwoods village into a bona fide tourist destination.
For more info, go to hay-on-wye.co.uk. Be sure to contact Steele Luxury Travel for all of your travel planing needs to Wales and beyond!